Murals, hidden courtyards and the neighbourhood that keeps reinventing itself.

El Raval is the bit of the old city guidebooks used to skip. We meet on Plaça Reial and cross into the Raval for two hours of walls, MACBA’s plaza, and the stories behind the tags — immigration, nightlife, and the artists who treated the street as a gallery before Instagram. Flat, lively, sometimes loud. Tip-based.